Hard Piped MLT False Bottom

I recently had a really bad stuck mash on a pumpkin beer, 10 pounds of pumpkin meat jammed up my MLT something fierce.  Eventually I figured out that the soft vinyl hose between the false bottom and outlet collapsed due to the heat, weight of grain, and the vacuum induced by the hose end being below the surface level of the wort.  That was the same piece of nasty hose that had been in there since 2006 (6 years) so decided to re-do the whole thing.

Using stainless compression fittings I ran a short length of copper tube between the false bottom and outlet.  Keeping the compression fittings finger-tight lets me remove the false bottom for cleaning.

Nasty old vinyl hose
New shiny connection!
False bottom with piping

Clean Your Behmor!

Confession: I’ve been using a Behmor 1600 for the past year in favor of my bread machine roaster.  The primary reason was that my heat gun caught on fire, but I also wanted a drum roaster that was quiet and would let me see the beans.

So I’ve been using it for a year and have been keeping the interior walls clean like the instructions say to do.  However in the past month my roasts have been taking a long time, 10oz of beans pushing even the boundaries of the 1# setting.  Flipping through the manual alerted to cleaning the inside of the machine as well, and I found the cause of my problems.

Inside view of air intake fan
Outside view of air intake fan. Yuck.
Exhaust chamber

I cleaned out the dust & lint with my vacuum’s angled attachment and roast times went back to normal.  My best guess is that because it was not able to draw enough air to keep the electronics cool so the roaster lessened its heat output as to not cook itself to death.

A word of advice though, after you get the side panel off plug the roaster back in before vacuuming it out in order to ground it and to dissipate any static electricity buildup.  Otherwise you may fry the circuit board as vacuums generate a lot of static.  Just be careful about poking your fingers in there!